This instalment continues on from part one, (at last!) where we’d only managed as far as Penmorfa. In fairness, there was a lot to see. This time, we’ll be heading out into the hills towards the Nantlle ridge and the steep slopes of Mynydd tal y Mignedd. First of all, you might like to refresh your memory with a look at a map someone has made of the whole length of the tramway here. By the way, my first post about the Porthmadog to Penmorfa section was here. Early Days Perhaps it was a tidy idea to end the first instalment where I did. Because in 1856, a plan was formed to extend the tramway out from Allt Wen, past Penmorfa towards the Gorseddau Quarry, some 3.6 kms away. The gauge of this enterprise was still 914mm (three feet) at this time, because it's precursor, the Tremadog Tramway was that gauge. Why not 610mm (two foot)? Well, partly because at that time, the Nantlle railway, north west of Porthmadog, had set the precedent at 914mm and was seen to be successful, running from Talysarn to Caernarfon*. The new outfit was called by the welsh name of the "Gorsedda" railway. It was engineered by James Brunlees, the man who also designed the superb Pont y Pandy mill. As we know, the Gorsedda quarry was an ailing concern pretty much from the off. It limped on for a few years until fading in 1867. But before the last rites were fully performed, the directors tried one last flourish of the pen in 1871 and announced that they would re-gauge the tramway, calling it the "Gorseddau Junction and Portmadoc(sic) railway". This made sense, as the tramway/railway now connected to the successful Croesor tramway and the Ffestiniog railway...except that there wasn't very much slate to be carried! Never mind, the line was authorised, and incorporated in 1871. A junction was made just past Braich y Big and the line headed off to what the promoters hoped would be it's saviour, The Prince of Wales Slate Quarry at the top of Cwm Pennant. (See the index on the right for my two posts about that amazing location.) The original formation to the Gorseddau Quarry remained at 914mm and became disused. The route. So let's have a look at what is left on the ground today. From where we last left the tramway, the route dives away on private land and disappears under the A487. But it emerges again shortly after and can be picked up as it crosses an old trackway that joins the A487 at Gorffwysta. The route can be accessed here- it's not a right of way and, technically, you are trespassing. But a couple of footpaths cross it, so you could make out a case for having lost your way. The formation is very overgrown in places, while elsewhere, it is still like a railway... The route is easy to trace on the map, or on Google Earth. It's also a pleasant reminder of how some things endure on the surface of the land, particularly in this part of the world. Here are a few more shots of the route just after Penmorfa... The formation is very boggy at the next line of fences, and becomes vestigial, being remembered only in field boundaries and hedge lines for a couple of kilometres, until it is crossed by a farm road at Gwernddwyryd. After this, it is lost beneath a grim caravan site and cement works at Glan Byl. It emerges on the other side of the A487 as firstly a line in the vegetation, then a hedgerow and finally a well revetted causeway across the marshy ground. This turns into a cutting past Cefn Peraidd as the ground starts to rise. Here there is a fascinating tunnel, which dives under the minor Penmorfa to Golan road. If you didn't know it was there, you wouldn't notice it, yet it is a fabulous survival. After the tunnel, we have another situation where the trackbed is private, although a couple of farm roads and a footpath cross it, so it's possible to see it and do a little exploration. Now the route is approaching the mill, Ty Mawr or Ynys y Pandy, whichever you prefer. Here, a footpath utilises the trackbed, giving some good views towards the wonderful remains of Ty Mawr. The mill is a destination in itself, and rewards some close scrutiny. I recommend the references in my blog post here for those interested enough to study the mysteries surrounding the place. At Braich y Big junction, the trackbed goes off to the right, north west towards the Gorseddau Quarry. Our route lies to the left, north westwards from Braich y Big along a footpath which stretches almost the whole way. The first few kilometres are fascinating for their views of Moel Isallt and the derelict farm of Caerfadog Uchaf. After Caerfadog Uchaf, the tramway describes a couple of tight scrolls to gain height. The country becomes a little more wild- at times it reminds me of the western states... Into the wilds The next section does seem a little wild west, especially in late summer when the grasses are a yellow brown colour. The route is fascinating, requiring many little accomodations with the land in the form of well-made small slate bridges or revetments. There are also a few Mediaeval house platforms and some fascinating examples of consumption cairns along the way, as if the stunning views weren't enough for you. A close shave It was along here that we had a lucky escape, as a young bull decided that we were a threat to his herd of heifers and charged us. I told to Petra to run for it, while I attempted to buy a little time and do what I'd seen my Dad do years ago on the farm. I stood with my arms wide and my stick ready, all the while shouting various curses at the bull. To my great relief, the fellow stopped and looked at me, puzzled, more than anything. But I was at least able to walk away backwards to the fence while he advanced at my pace. Luckily I didn't trip, and made it over the fence in one piece! Across the almost wild land here is a delight, no matter what the weather. As you can see from the photos, we've done it in all seasons; each has it's own charm, especially in the deep winter, when fox and rabbit tracks mingle with the sheep's hoofprints. You realise what a thoroughfare the tramway is for the creatures of the moor. Next instalment coming soon- Cwrt Isaf to the Prince of Wales Quarry.
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